We are on the leading edge of technology in high qulity - low v.o.c. products
for your masonry, unglazed tile, slate, pavers, concrete, marble, granite, grout,
stamped concrete, limestone, brick, clay, plaster and stone projects.

"... innovators in low v.o.c. stone protection products..."
"...Duro Shine develops and manufactures high quality water-based products
  to the highest standards of performance...at realistic prices..."

HOW TO SEAL STONE & TILE GUIDE
The following information is provided to make your application of sealers trouble free.
  Often we find people applying sealers as an after-thought.
It should be understood that applying sealers is as important a process as setting the tile.

part 1 - Our Products
part  2 - Technical information on defective low v.o.c. lacquers
part 3 - Installation Information

 First let's put our sealers into four categories, and see the differences.

PENETRATING, ACRYLIC/ POLYURETHANE
    SILANE MODIFIED FLUOROPOLYMER IMPREGNATING SEALER, AND THE COLOR ENHANCER

1) PENETRATING SEALER
for use on concrete, clay, masonry and pavers
404 Penetrating Sealer is listed online by the Southern California Air Quality Management District as a "SUPER COMPLIANT" product!

404 PENETRATING SEALER is a penetrating sealer, as opposed to a film-former. A film-former is one that forms a plastic film. These are nearly invisible. This sealer is a potassium siliconate, and type of reactive silioxane. When it is applied, it reacts with the concrete, forming densifying crystals, that add a water resistant barrier. 

404 is for use on any masonry, or clay type of porous tile, concrete or stucco. You would not use this type of product on marble, or granite. This will protect against water, and is an excellent grout release. A grout release means that if you install a porous tile, such as a paver; you must stop the porosity of the tile before you grout. If  not, then the grout will stain the tile. 404 IS A STAND ALONE PRODUCT, and 
should not be used in conjunction with any other of our sealers. 404 is not intended to be an oil-resistant product. Should oil fall on the surface; it will remain on the surface for a time (days) at normal temperatures. But when you clean it up; oil residual will remain in the upper layers of the finish. 

404 is a great product for the money. Most of the competitors require several coats to seal, and some never quite do the job. Some if applied too much will get shiny; 404 will not. Some will turn to white powder on top; 404 will not. With ours, you will only experience a slight color change of the surface. Not really noticeable, unless you have a dark colored stucco and the color must be precise. 

404 is an off white, water based liquid, that can be applied with a brush, roller or sponge. It can be used with a sprayer. 

But as always with sealers; test some on an un-installed area before applying to your substrate.

404 PENETRATING SEALER INFORMATION PAGE	CLICK BRICK TO ENLARGE	CLICK CONCRETE TO ENLARGE	CLICK STUCCO TO ENLARGE

Our water based Self-crosslinking acrylic/ poly sealers are for use on porous surfaces such as concrete, stone, clay and concrete pavers, brick, grout, stamped concrete, slate, unglazed tile, decomposed granite, sand joints and masonry surfaces. These are film forming sealers, are SUPERIOR LACQUER REPLACEMENT products.  Film forming means they form a plastic film. These are stand alone products. You start with them, and finish with them. They are designed to be multiple coat products, because there needs to be a balance between penetration, and coating. They penetrate very well on porous substrates, so you
DO NOT use a penetrating sealer first. Film forming sealers for tile, and stone need to
penetrate into the surface so they are anchored in. If they just sit on the surface as a one coat product would do, then vapor pressure could make them lift (delaminate), and you would not get the depth of enhancement, or stain protection.

With the V.O.C. laws in California, and other states following the same; water based products must replace solvent based ones. In California, this change has happened. Dealers, and contractors are looking for something to replace old, inferior solvent based lacquers. Our water based self-crosslinking acrylic/polys out-perform any non-self-crosslinking product on the market. 

We have two self-crosslinking acrylic/poly products. 646 PLUS SEMI GLOSS, and 686 ULTRA HIGH GLOSS. As with the acrylics, the main difference is the look. 646 PLUS is semi gloss, and 686 PLUS is the ultra high gloss. 

They are harder plastics than the acrylics, and have a much higher melt point. When acrylics are softening in hot weather; self-crosslinking acrylic/ polyurethanes maintain their integrity.  The self-crosslinking acrylic, and the solvent-free poly are the ultimate resin for a film-forming sealer. The combination obtains the optimum characteristics of each. The solvent free polyurethane side adds to the hardness and durability. The self-crosslinking make these the high end choice for use as a joint stabilizer, or binding decomposed granite. These also add strength and integrity to grout. 

When grout forms; it is similar to concrete. It is a 28 day curing process. Most tile setters do not wait more than a day, or two after grouting to seal tiles. Sealers damage the grout curing process, and compromise the grout. 
If someone tells you otherwise; do the poor man's test to see what I am explaining.
Take a little grout in a small cup, and mix it with the amount of water you would add to your grout. Then take another cup, and instead of adding water; mix it with the same amount of sealer. Wait a few days and look at your results. The water/ grout mixture will be hardened, while the sealer/ grout will be like sand.
We recommend waiting until grout is cured, and then get the extra added strength of our film forming sealers on your project.

You also will not have to breathe the high solvent content of  lacquer, and at the same time... get better results. Also if you look carefully at the label of some solvent based lacquer, some actually tell you not to use where hydrostatic pressure (vapor pressure) exists. That  would be just about anything attached to the earth. Then they tell you to use it on your driveway. Oil based lacquer is NON BREATHABLE. First it shines; then it darkens and yellows as it decays, loosing the color, and essence of the substrate, and peels. A common sales pitch we hear about lacquer is ..."it gives a beautiful dark look to the tiles".

Feel confident with our semi-gloss, and ultra high gloss sealers. Our film formering sealers only slightly darken the surface, while they enhance the natural colors, of your stone, and are breathable. Breathable means that vapor pressure from below can work it's way through the surface without delaminting it.

646 PLUS and 686 PLUS have excellent coating and re-coat properties. Apply with a brush, sponge, roller, or sprayer. Apply a heavy first coat, and let completely dry. Remaining coats should be light. If the surface darkens like it is getting wet, when you are applying; it is not sealed yet. When you apply the coat where it does not darken when it gets wet; then it is sealed. The re-coat is excellent. Do not apply in direct sunlight on a hot day. Flashing could occur, where the sealer sets up on the surface, and does not penetrate into the surface.

646 PLUS  LOW GLOSS INFORMATION PAGE	CLICK  STONE 646 PLUS  SEALED SLATE	CLICK STONE 646 PLUS SEALED PAVER	CLICK STONE 646 PLUS ON FLAMED GRANITE

686 PLUS  ULTRA HIGH GLOSS INFORMATION PAGE	CLICK   STONE 686 PLUS SEALED  SLATE	CLICK STONE 686 PLUS  SEALED PAVER	CLICK STONE 686 PLUS ON FLAMED GRANITE

Invisi-Guard Impregnator is a water based SILANE MODIFIED FLUOROPOLYMER, and the BEST impregnator on the market. It is used on all types of stones to provide excellent water, oil and stain resistance. It is nearly invisible. This is a water-based product;  1.8 v.o.c. , and performs better than any oil, or water-based impregnator on the market, including that impregnators are over 700 v.o.c..
We beat them at under 2 v.o.c.. This California proof of concept product is revolutionary.

Invisi-Guard is your choice product for marble, granite, and other fine stones, that are not porous enough for film-forming gloss, or semi-gloss sealers, as well as concrete, and other porous stones, and plaster. It is a stand alone product, and should not be used with any other sealing product. This is a reactive product, that forms a permanent bond with the stone or masonry surface. Don't be fooled by the price, or that it is water-based. Invisi-Guard  proves that near 0 v.o.c. can out perform sickening high solvent products.

Impregnators cost more than your average film-forming sealer to make, but not 10 times as much. We refer to what has evolved in the impregnator business, as the "Rolls Royce syndrome". The first companies to come out with oil resistant, invisible technology, set the mark at well over $100 per gallon. We manufacture the BEST product at a reasonable price.

We are leaders in the latest, and best low v.o.c. chemistry.

INVISI-GUARD INFORMATION PAGE	CLICK  MABLE  TO SEE ENLARGED	CLICK CANTERA TO SEE ENLARGED	CLICK GRANITE TO SEE ENLARGED	CLICK CAST CONCRETE ENLARGED	CLICK CANTERA TO SEE ENLARGED

HOME PAGE	PAGE AND PRODUCT MENU	PURCHASE PRODUCT	QUESTIONS	DEALER INQUIRES

Do not attempt to hide efflorescence with sealer. Efflorescence is that white chalky look that tiles, and concrete sometimes get. It is most often an alkaline minerals such as sodium oxides (inherent in clays, and mortars). These come to the surface with moisture (vapor pressure), and react with carbon dioxide. They crystallize to form chalky deposits. Use a ph neutral treatment to clean efflorescence, never use an acid treatment. Again we rarely want to expose our surfaces to acids.

Be sure the surface is clean, dry, and stable prior to sealing. Remember; what you see is what you get.
READ SECTION 9 HERE ON NEUTRALIZING ACID!

Use product to pre-grout, and after grouting, go back, and finish sealing with the product you started with. Our products are designed with a good balance between coating, and penetration. Some companies that produce water downed versions of sealers, tell you to first use their penetrating sealers, and then use a film-former (plastic sealer) on top. This flies in the face of good sense. Although there are some circumstances where the substrate is so porous that you can apply one coat of a penetrating sealer prior to an acrylic, or polyurethane; good care must be taken by prior testing, to ensure that the film former will properly absorbed into the surface. If you seal the surface too well, the penetrating sealer will be a bond breaker between the surface, and the sealer. Your safest bet is to start with the product you want as your finish product. Whatever you do; never use a pre-grout product to clog the pores that is not a sealer. Soap type products can work o.k. as a grout release, but negatively affect the ability to properly seal the project.

"....Rinsing: After the final application of LITHOCHROME Chemstain Classic has remained on the surface for a minimum of 4 hours, all unreacted Chemstain residue must be neutralized and then removed completely prior to sealing. A solution of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water, using 1 pound of baking soda per 5 gallons of water (454 g/19 L), can be used to neutralize the residual Chemstain acid. The solution should be applied until it stops fizzing.

After neutralization, the surface should be rinsed thoroughly with clean water several times to remove soluble salts. Runoff may stain adjacent areas or harm plants. It should be collected by wet-vacuuming or absorbing with an inert material. After rinsing is complete, a pH test using litmus paper or pH paper should be performed to verify that no residual acid is present. A wet strip of red or neutral litmus paper should be applied to the surface, and if the litmus turns blue, no residual acid is present. Alternatively, wide-range type pH paper can be used by applying a wet strip to the surface and comparing with the color chart. If the color chart indicates a pH of 7 or higher, no residual acid is present. If residual acid is present, further neutralization is required. After completion of neutralization, rinsing, and verification that no acid is present, the stained surface should be tested for cleanliness by wiping the surface with a white cloth. If residue appears on the cloth, additional surface cleaning must be performed.

Failure to completely remove all residue prior to sealing the surface will cause
appearance defects, adhesion loss or peeling, reduced durability, and possible bonding failure and delamination of the sealer....Failure to completely remove all Chemstain residue and rinse the surface clean prior to sealing will result in performance problems with the sealer..."

incompatible	what you deserve